Encens Magazine

Published twice a year since 2002, ENCENS is focused on fashion as artform from the perspective of designers rather than trends. The magazine investigate new forms of dressing from past to present with probing interviews, extensive use of photography and vintage, and dynamic layout.

Issue 41

Features an interview with ALDO FALLAI on photographing slices of life of working women carrying the HERALD TRIBUNE for GIORGIO ARMANI, DIDIER MALIGE on creating an international storm back in the eighties with disheveled cuts and shaved back napes, CHRISTIAN ASTUGUEVIEILLE on aligning unknown notes and flattening the perfume bottle for COMME DES GARCONS, an essay on self-effaced legend AGNES MARTIN, EDITH HEAD on pionering clothes that suit a character for silver screen legends, and artist MICHEL JOURNIAC on questioning women’s stereotypes.

Issue 40

Features a portfolio interview with ALBERT WATSON on shooting CHRISTY TURLINGTON at the lowest lighting degree, creating one hundred covers for VOGUE and being dressed like a hobo by YOHJI YAMAMOTO, PETER SCHLESINGER on pressing the shutter on an unknown named ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE, JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC on being confronted with his other self in a portrait by DUANE MICHALS, artist JEAN-CHARLES BLAIS on posing for YOHJI YAMAMOTO first menswear for a handful of clothes, and an essay on BARON DE MEYER photographic prelude.

Issue 39

Features an interview with artist ALAN CHARLTON on locking himself into grey colour, an essay on ELSIE DE WOLFE on becoming the New York Café Society guru of the still unknown profession of interior designer, UMA WANG meanigful use of fabrics, ROLAND BARTHES on turning reality into signs, PIERRE JEANNERET on his posterity reward after a life in the shadow of his cousin LE CORBUSIER, and GIORGIO ARMANI on building a new knowledge on the jacket.

Issue 38

Features an interview with JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER on filtering reality through obsessions, provoking heated debates by subverting male role and how Aids changed it all, CLAUDIA HUIDOBRO on modelling by accident and ending playing her own debut on stage, an essay on BILL GIBB fairytale clothing in the MARGARET THATCHER era, MARYSE GASPARD on hiding her YVES SAINT LAURENT purchases from her boss PIERRE CARDIN, JOAN JULIET BUCK on putting together french VOGUE from a monk’s cell office without chair, and BLESS designers DESIREE HEISS and INES KAAG on not having Facebook or Instagram accounts.

Issue 37

Features an essay on TRUMAN CAPOTE and the dedication to dreams, ARATA ISOZAKI on building spaceships for the eighties, TONY VIRAMONTES on the last spasm of illustration, acting like a diva and not liking pretty girls, MICHELE ROSIER plastic queen of 1965, LIZ TILBERIS arduous but glorious ride into the sky of HARPER’S BAZAAR, WALTER ALBINI on pionering the concept of ‘total look’, and AD REINHARDT on lifting black into the limits of painting.

Issue 36

Features an interview with SERGE LUTENS on loathing big hair, depression, and revolutionizing perfumery by abolishing the top note, ISABELLE WEINGARTEN on doing her only nude with GUY BOURDIN, removing her eyebrows for SERGE LUTENS and her slow motion play for ROBERT BRESSON, an essay on SUSAN SONTAG subverting rules, a conversation with journalist ANGELO FLACCAVENTO on the risks of language and the fascination for unauthorized objects, and WILLIE CHRISTIE on the pivotal moment of having his picture on the cover of VOGUE.

Issue 35

Features an essay on KARL LAGERFELD photographed with a fan by HORST back in 1983, CLAUDE MONTANA shoulder padded peaks narrated by fitting model AXELLE DOUE, GHISLAIN MOLLET-VIEVILLE on emptying his appartment and calling it art, ISSEY MIYAKE on dance, musical comedies and the comfort of his samurai armour, MAIME ARNODIN on transforming prêt-a-porter into an aesthetic experience and editing the dissident ideas of YVES SAINT LAURENT for the perfume OPIUM.

Issue 34

Features an essay on KATHERINE HEPBURN on performing the role of a corpse, becoming a casual chic target for Seventh Avenue retailers, lesbianism and feminism, YVES SAINT LAURENT scandalous pastiche of war time look back in 1971, an interview with FARIDA KHELFA on stealing the suit of her boy-friend JEAN-PAUL GOUDE, WILLY VAN ROOY on posing for HELMUT NEWTON, and SERGE LUTENS on cutting bob hair on VOGUE editors in his bathroom, making his first image for SHISEIDO and finding beautiful the skin wrinkled like a parchment of the BEGUM AGA KHAN.

Issue 33

Features an interview with FRANCOISE HA VAN on spreading the rage of being dressed like a picture of the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC through the pages of ELLE, an essay on AZZEDINE ALAIA glove fitting approach, HAIDER ACKERMANN purist shift, UMIT BENAN on his tribute to AMERICAN PSYCHO, GIORGIO ARMANI on becoming a household copyright as known as FORD or COCA COLA, KARL LAGERFELD on his manifesto collection for CHLOE back in 1975, GRACE MIRABELLA on turning her VOGUE office in beige and her ode to normcore, and CECIL BEATON on how to tie up with perfect noblesse a basket of bread.

Issue 32

Features an essay on JEAN MUIR and her 1974 viral take on jersey among women tired of feminist armor, an interview with CHRISTIAN LACROIX from his hippie period hanging out at CAFE FLORE to his overnight blast back in 1987, MICHELE LAMY on breaking down walls for the headquarter of RICK OWENS and covering all the buyers with dust, SERGE LUTENS on how he transfigured the look of his models and his battle with DIOR, and SUSAN MONCUR on how she learnt smoking like MARLENE DIETRICH on the set of LES STARS by SERGE LUTENS.

Issue 31

Features an interview with BILLY BOY on reintroducing ELSA SCHIAPARELLI on the map in 1984, collecting haute couture dresses of his aunts at 22 years old and covering himself with post-surrealist Navajo crosses and Eiffel Towers hats of his own, OLIVIER CHATENET on his nineties pared-down label MARIOT CHANET, HAIDER ACKERMANN on citing MARLENE DIETRICH and LUCHINO VISCONTI in his show, and PIERRE CARDIN on appearing on the cover of PARIS MATCH in NEIL ARMSTRONG space suit.

Issue 30

Issue 29

Uniform issue, feature an insert on GIORGIO ARMANI from the perspective of his 1984 turning-point season, a talk with ANNE-MARIE BERETTA from inventing the identity of MAX MARA to her architectural DNA, an interview with MICHEL SCHREIBER on dressing former french president FRANCOIS MITTERRAND in Mao collar, and KOOS VAN DEN AKKER on pointing the cursor on the need for patchwork back in 1981 and building a five years fashion empire with only two hundred dollars.

Issue 28

All white issue, feature an essay on illustrator ANTONIO LOPEZ from sketching PAT CLEVELAND dancing on the tables of the SEPT nightclub to recycling DURER atmospheres for BLOOMINGDALES ads, former editor in chief CLAUDE BROUET and her discovery of PETER LINDBERGH at MARIE CLAIRE, her less is more ukases and her obsession of a woman walking in floaty duster on the streets of New York, and an interview with EMMANUELLE KHANH on the ups and down of her thirty years career in fashion.

Issue 27

2nd annual issue dissect the disruptive turmoil of Japanese fashion back in 1983 in a twelve pages insert, and feature an essay on photographer DEBORAH TURBEVILLE love for indigo and dirndl skirts, the pioneer of minimalism, wardrobe restraint and sarong ZORAN, an interview with GERARD PIPART, from dressing LAUREN BACALL at BALMAIN to making ready-to-wear fashionable at CHLOE, and a talk with model YVONNE SPORRE on the process of becoming a fixture in SERGE LUTENS images an the new behavior adopted on COMME DES GARCONS catwalk.

Issue 26

Annual issue of 380 pages and monochromatic cover, featuring an interview with KENZO TAKADA on the scandal of labelling his brand JUNGLE JAP back in 1973, PETER KNAPP on the freedom of art directing the magzine ELLE in the early sixties, a tribute to the garboesque styling of PEGGY ROCHE circa 1974, and a conversation with GUY CUEVAS on being part of the dramatic shift around 1977 from the confined salons to the catwalk, from silent atmospheres to music.

Issue 25

Began with a manifesto for destructured, floating, anti figure-hugging clothes as seen at DIOR by KRIS VAN ASSCHE, DAMIR DOMA, CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE and CHLOE by HANNAH McGIBBON, followed by a tribute to PERRY ELLIS seen through the lens of his exclusive photographer ERICA LENNARD, and an interview with CLAUDE MONTANA on stepping out of the comfort zone of his time, WALLIS FRANKEN, the strength given by fashion editors and the necessity of being misunderstood.

Issue 24

Features an extensive dossier on East meets West appropriation by DRIES VAN NOTEN, a flash-back on CINZIA RUGGERI milanese play with boundaries back in 1983, reflections on human form, GIORGIO ARMANI, loneliness and difference with RICK OWENS, and an interview with PER SPOOK on how he shaked a dormant haute couture back in 1978 and dressed JANE BIRKIN.

Issue 23

Features 25 pages on RAF SIMONS prophetic reshaping of menswear, an interview with DRIES VAN NOTEN on his shift from embroidered to quaker, an essay on GEOFFREY BEENE strip-bare version of the American look, VIOLETA SANCHEZ on performing YVES SAINT LAURENT and FRANCO MOSCHINO visionary head-to-toe, and AGNES B. on building her universe from an antifashion spectrum.

Issue 22

Features a story on MIUCCIA PRADA biographical associations of feminism, communist party, ROBERT MUSIL and SAINT LAURENT RIVE GAUCHE inside the making of her label MIU MIU, essays on RUDI GERNREICH and MARC JACOBS, an interview with ANGELO TARLAZZI on the accidental success of his handkerchief dresses at JEAN PATOU back in 1977, and ISABELLE WEINGARTEN on being the blank slate of genius makeup artist SERGE LUTENS.

Issue 21

Starts with 25 pages on JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER and his way of epitomizing way ahead of his peers gender fluidity through his 1984 collection UNE GARDE-ROBE POUR 2, portraits of HANNELORE KNUTS, JOHANNES SCHWEIGER, image-maker MELKA TREANTON and an essay on CHRISTOPHE LEBOURG return to cleanness and basics back in 1984.

Issue 20

Features an extensive story on MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA jacket since the first season of the invisible logo house in 1988, a conversation on menswear clothing with writer FARID CHENOUNE, a visit at VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO studio in Antwerp, words from PATRIZIA ROVERSI on building the new profession of stylist back in the seventies with her husband PAOLO, and an interview with designer POPY MORENI on the concept of ‘creator’ back in 1980, nostalgia for the twenties and disruptive style.

Issue 19

Introduces a new format with a cover printed on grey cardboard with golden font title, with interviews on new perspectives with breaking rules designers - FABRICS INTERSEASON, NICOLAS ANDREAS TARALIS, HAIDER ACKERMANN, portraits of memorable personages such as TINA CHOW remembered by ERIC BOMAN, NICOLE CRASSAT on capturing the avant-garde of STEPHEN SPROUSE in the pages of ELLE with the beginner STEVEN MEISEL, and ANNE-MARIE BERETTA on feminism linked with her unique sense of architectural clothing.

Issue 18

Features a close-up on ANN DEMEULEMEESTER, an interview with FRANCOISE HA VAN, the stylist behind the iconic wrappings of KENZO 1983 shot by HANS FEURER, essays on JUDY BLAME, FREDERICK WISEMAN and ADELINE ANDRE, and an interview with CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE on the relaunch of his eponymous brand.

Issue 17

Features an insert by MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA echoing the making of spring/summer 2006 collection, a digging into the archives of the house since 2000, interviews with RICK OWENS, JEAN DINH VAN, CLAUDIA HUIDOBRO, RAF SIMONS and SARAH MOON.

Issue 16

Features a DOMINIQUE ISSERMANN portfolio on RICK OWENS shot on model muse ANNE ROHART, interviews with artist CLAUDE LEVEQUE and theoretician ERIC TRONCY on his new curatorial approach, a close-up on MARTIN MARGIELA oversize turning-point collection of spring/summer 2000, and a tribute to seventies designer CHRISTIANE BAILLY remembered by her close friend ANDREE PUTMAN.

Issue 15

ENCENS N°15, spring/summer 2005, black and white issue featuring interviews with AZZEDINE ALAIA, SONIA RYKIEL, including a portfolio on her fabulous advertising imagery shot circa 1984 by DOMINIQUE ISSERMANN, and a conversation on dematerializing the monochrom with artist CLAUDE RUTAULT.

Issue 14

Feature a focus on rewriting BALENCIAGA by NICOLAS GUESQUIERE, an insert on newcomer LUTZ HUELLE seen by photographer JONATHAN HALLAM, and an interview on the meaning of avant-garde in fashion with CATHERINE LARDEUR.

Issue 13

Summer issue, 2004, feature an interview portfolio of the visionary fashion reporter FRANK HORVAT, CLAUDE BROUET obsessions with white shirt and minimalistic realism during her tenure as chief editor of MARIE CLAIRE from 1971 to 1988 and a profile on social art by GORDON MATTA-CLARK.

Issue 12

White issue featuring an essay on the anticipator of the minimal approach to fashion back in 1984 CHRISTOPHE LEBOURG, a flash-back on MAKO YAMAZAKI styling for COMME DES GARCONS first parisian breakthrough, eighties ARTISTES magazine and MONICA BONVICINI twisted lifestyle.

Issue 11

Theatrical issue featuring an investigation on the 1980’s filofax of conceptual art collector GHISLAIN MOLLET-VIEVILLE, the red curtain of artist PAUL SEAWRIGHT and a tribute to filmmaker ANDREI TARKOVSKI.

Issue 10

Features a story on visionary archives of MARTIN MARGIELA from 1992, memories from fashion industry mavericks on how magazines helped building their personage - VALERIE LEBERICHEL, MAKO YAMAZAKI, ROY GENTY… and a portfolio by artist ALLAN SEKULA.

Issue 9

Normcore issue photographed by CONSTANT ANEE, featuring a portfolio interview with artist JEAN-LUC MOULENE on facts and fiction, poems by BOTHO STRAUSS.

Issue 8

Turns around the subject of what is it to be a designer, a stylist, a decorator, a furniture designer - with studies on no nonsense heroes of a parallel way : VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO, LUTZ, MARTIN MARGIELA for HERMES.

Issue 7

Titled MINIMALISME and entirely shot by documentary photographer CONSTANT ANEE, feature an investigation on grey flannel, status and nothingness, and the fifty words novels of SAMUEL BECKETT.

Issue 6

Features a piece on ‘Paradise Lost’ by MARTHA ROSLER, an interview on the strength of recycling with artist THOMAS HIRSCHHORN, YVES SAINT LAURENT 1977 archives from ANOUSCHKA.

Issue 5

Settles the mood for anonymity and laid-back uniforms through interviews with CLAUDE BROUET on timelessness, JEAN TOUITOU on invisibility, and STEPHANE WARGNIER on the return to classicism by MARTIN MARGIELA for HERMES.

Issue 4

Features a portfolio on WILLIAM EGGLESTON (including the cover), poems by PETER DE POTTER for RAF SIMONS, RYUJI MIYAMOTO photographic inventory of Tokyo homeless shelters, and a rewind back to 1983 Japanese revolution as seen by psychoanalist JEAN-MICHEL RIBETTES, writer FRANCIS DORLEANS, and ex-Vogue editor in chief turned YOHJI YAMAMOTO pasionaria IRENE SILVAGNI.

Issue 3

Features a DAVID BURROW interview on redefining painting, CLAUDIA HUIDOBRO on bridging THIERRY MUGLER and COMME DES GARCONS through modeling in 1984, and PATRICK VAN OMMESLAEGUE on making his entire collection with a single roll of crêpe georgette.

Issue 2

Feature a photographic essay on actress KATE MORAN, the scrapbooks of artist MARC COUTURIER, studies on real clothes : white shirt, t-shirt, trench-coat.

Issue 1

Features a PIERRE HUYGUE interview, an essay on DEBORAH TURBEVILLE bathhouse photographs, PATRICK VAN OMMESLAEGHE homage to ZORAN and PANTONE and the unconditional love of the gallerist MARION DE BEAUPRE for AZZEDINE ALAIA.

Issue 42

ENCENS N42, fall/winter 2019, feature a portfolio of visual masterpieces by BARRY LATEGAN with in-depth memories of close collaborators on his studio runned like a convent, JOSIE BORAIN on being the muse of CALVIN KLEIN and his 1984 controversial fragrance Obsession, photographer GIAN PAOLO BARBIERI on playing alongside MARIA CALLAS for LUCHINO VISCONTI, shooting AUDREY HEPBURN freshly settled in Milan and becoming the impossible most wanted item of DIANA VREELAND, an essay on COMME DES GARCONS stark revolution of emptied boutiques back in 1984, CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE and SARAH-LINH TRAN on building a parallel world, UMA WANG on creating stiking garments from scratch, and HED MAYNER on provoking thoughts by shaping unfitted clothes.

Credits

Design: Vincent Tavano

Build: Adrien Picard